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 Post subject: Maintenance: Rebel 250 Valve Adjustment
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:13 am 
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Joined: May 17, 2008
Motorcycle: Suzuki V-Strom DL650K9
Rebel: None
Country: USA
State/Province: KY
City: Louisville
At long last, a complete video for adjusting the valve lash on a Honda Rebel 250. Please keep in mind that this video pertains to a 2008 Honda Rebel 250 and you should always verify the specifications of your own bike by using the service manual.

Maintenance: Rebel 250 Valve Adjustment

If you are unable to play the video, try downloading it to your computer and playing it from there.

Enjoy!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:14 am 
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Joined: Jul 10, 2008
Country: USA
State/Province: UT
City: Tridell
Wow I am thoroughly impressed. What a great instructional video. I am just getting ready to adjust my 2008 rebel in the next week and this video will be invaluable to me! Thanks for the time and effort put into the making of the video. Oh and I loved the OUTAKES at the end!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:54 am 
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Joined: Sep 11, 2008
Motorcycle: 2009 Rebel 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: WA
City: Seattle
"Working on a hot engine is just..uh...bad..." :lol:

8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:55 am 
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Joined: Jun 12, 2008
Motorcycle: 1982 Honda GL500i Silverwing
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: OH
City: Painesville
Just in time because I was planning on doing this on this coming weekend. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:57 am 
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Joined: Apr 12, 2009
Country: USA
State/Province: TX
City: Carrollton (dallas)
Excellent video as always, especially on one of the more intimidating projects!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 12:22 pm 
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Joined: Jun 27, 2008
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: MA
City: Amherst
Great video, and wonderful timing -- I'm about to take a week and a half off work, and my Rebel's tank is almost empty (meaning I'm less concerned about slopping fuel over myself as I take the tank off). Thanks!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 12:37 pm 
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Joined: Oct 28, 2008
Motorcycle: Kawasaki Vulcan 500
Rebel: Other
Country: USA
State/Province: VA
City: Roanoke
For what little it's worth, as long as your petcock isn't leaking, you shouldn't lose any fuel when you remove the tank. I doubt I've lost more than a drop or two each time I've pulled the tank.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 2:14 pm 
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Joined: Jun 27, 2008
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: MA
City: Amherst
Yeah, well... I'm paranoid. Even if I knew the tank were empty I'd probably set it down so the petcock was over a bucket. 8-)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:01 pm 
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Joined: Apr 18, 2009
Country: USA
State/Province: PA
City: Oakdale
Thank you... That is just what I was waiting for. Very good video. You just saved me $100. I now feel confident I can do it myself.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:46 pm 
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Joined: Feb 9, 2008
Country: USA
State/Province: CA
City: Los Angeles
Nice, Zep. You're a big help as usual, and your videos will make things much easier for the inexperienced. One thing slipped by me, though: when did you pull the plugs? I saw you take the boots off, but the plugs were just out of view for most of the rest of it, until they were out being gapped at the end!

Anyway, great work as always, and thanks!

-Detour


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:49 pm 
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Joined: May 21, 2009
Country: USA
State/Province: PA
City: Tarentum (pittsburgh)
Detour wrote:
Nice, Zep. You're a big help as usual, and your videos will make things much easier for the inexperienced. One thing slipped by me, though: when did you pull the plugs? I saw you take the boots off, but the plugs were just out of view for most of the rest of it, until they were out being gapped at the end!

Anyway, great work as always, and thanks!

-Detour


Ahh the magic of editing :)

actually, best of my understanding, its not necessary to take the plugs out at all. seems that we do this mainly to get them out of the way.

And yes. great vdeo. (all of them by the way)

Is there only 3 so far or did I miss some? At the rate your going Zep, were gonna need a FAQ slot just for your instructional videos.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Aug 28, 2003
Country: USA
State/Province: CA
City: San Dimas (la County)
excellent video.

only three comments:

1. on the classics, the t mark lines up with the right edge of the notch rather than the center of the notch.

2. you can use a six inch crescent wrench to hold the adjuster stem in place while you snug up the lock nut with a box head wrench slipped over the top (and estimate the torque).

advantage is the adjuster stem doesn't move during torquing as it does using a socket.

3. clymer's suggests checking all 11 head bolts while you are in there doing this procedure -- eight on the rockers at one spec and the other three a lot less torque.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 12:41 am 
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Joined: Jul 5, 2004
Country: USA
State/Province: TX
City: Dallas/ft Worth
Nice video. The info about how to use the gauge was great. This should help people become comfortable with the procedure.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 10:26 am 
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Joined: May 17, 2008
Motorcycle: Suzuki V-Strom DL650K9
Rebel: None
Country: USA
State/Province: KY
City: Louisville
Detour wrote:
One thing slipped by me, though: when did you pull the plugs? I saw you take the boots off, but the plugs were just out of view for most of the rest of it, until they were out being gapped at the end!


I pulled them off just after removing the fuel tank. I shot some footage of it but it ended up on the cutting room floor as they say. The footage wans't what I wanted it to be and I was running out of time. The video came out to be about 20 minutes as it was.

Maybe I'll do a spark plug video; Checking, cleaning, gapping, removal and installation. That's at least 3 minutes worth of video. :D


Ender3D wrote:
Ahh the magic of editing :)

actually, best of my understanding, its not necessary to take the plugs out at all. seems that we do this mainly to get them out of the way.

And yes. great vdeo. (all of them by the way)

Is there only 3 so far or did I miss some? At the rate your going Zep, were gonna need a FAQ slot just for your instructional videos.


When I did my first valve adjustment which was NOT very long ago, I'm thinking perhaps less that 700 miles, the plugs installed allowed compression to build while cranking on the crankshaft. Was much easier with them out.

This would be the 4th video thus far.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 10:30 am 
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Joined: Oct 28, 2008
Motorcycle: Kawasaki Vulcan 500
Rebel: Other
Country: USA
State/Province: VA
City: Roanoke
Plugs can go either way. It's not at all necessary to remove them, but it is quite a bit easier to rotate with them out. Not terribly hard with them in, though.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 10:33 am 
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Joined: May 17, 2008
Motorcycle: Suzuki V-Strom DL650K9
Rebel: None
Country: USA
State/Province: KY
City: Louisville
WELL...

Here is something that I forgot to mention. After I did the valve adjustment and a quick run around the block which was seen in the video, I went for a longer more thorough ride.

As it turns out, I managed to squeeze a little more power out of the bike and gained approximately 2 MPH in additional top end bringing me up to about 74-75 MPH (indicated) under it's own power. This translates to 70-71 MPH (GPS).

I was able to get it up to 84 MPH (indicated) which is 79 (GPS) using traffic flow, wind at my back, going downhill while smiling.

The engine ran alot smoother and cleaner and had even less noise than before. I'm impressed with the results of this valve adjustment.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 12:49 pm 
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Joined: May 9, 2009
Motorcycle: CMX 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: AL
City: Gadsden
Fantastic video Zep! Thank you for the major effort to help others. As someone else pointed out the only thing I do differently is to torque the rocker arms and head bolts before checking valve clearance.

This is the best instructional video or write up that I have seen on adjusting valves and the sequence on getting a feel for the "drag" is awesome. :D Checkiing clearance before starting the adjustment is a great way to get a feel for "drag". Especially if you are new to wrenching. :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Jun 29, 2009
Yeah, this looks pretty straightforward. I am absolutely going to do this myself next time.

One question though: The manual says to do it next at 4000 miles. Is there any merit to doing it more often than that?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 2:39 pm 
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Joined: May 9, 2009
Motorcycle: CMX 250
Rebel: 250
Country: USA
State/Province: AL
City: Gadsden
daq7 wrote:
Yeah, this looks pretty straightforward. I am absolutely going to do this myself next time.

One question though: The manual says to do it next at 4000 miles. Is there any merit to doing it more often than that?


Dag - if you aren't getting 80+ MPG and at least 70 MPH true I would do them. And setting them at .004" is a lot safer than trying for .002" or .003". 0.004" is not much more than the thickness of a human hair!

I have always checked valve clearance on manual tappets on my bike, car or scooter at about 2000 miles. That is about every 2 months for me. I even check my lawn mower every spring when it comes out of storage!

If you let it set for 24 to 36 hours (like Friday nite to Sunday morning) it shouldn't take more than about 1 hour to check the clearance. But do remember to check the rocker shaft and head bolt torque before checking the valve tappet clearance. Even though the dealer who did your 600 mile service should have done it, operating conditions and climate changes could have affected it.

Cylinder head/camshaft holder nut = 17 ft lb (8 nuts); head bolts = 9 ft lb (3 bolts). The SEQUENCE of tightening the bolts is also important since the tightening pattern distributes any stress on the head and block so that you don't distort the gaskets, etc. Factory manual says the correct sequence is: (1) left front BOLT (2) center rear bolt (3) right front bolt (4) right rear NUT (5) left front nut (6) left rear nut (7) right front nut [8] left center-rear nut (9) right center-front nut (10) left center-front nut (11) right center-rear nut. NOTE: The factory manual DOES NOT call for loc-tite on the head bolts or camshaft nuts. I use a 3/8" drive "clicker" torque wrench.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Jun 29, 2009
I think I get slightly less that 70mph true, and my mpg is around 75. I am planning to change the oil at 2000 miles, and I will do a valve adjustment then as well. I am really looking forward to it. I will probably hit 2000 withing a month. I think I am at 1300 now.


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